Stuff Surfers Like

#32 Combo Swells

ssl — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 04:49:23 +0000

Any surfer who has faced a walled up beachbreak lineup will attest to its saving grace, it’s luscious A-frame morsels of peaky goodness, it’s welcome respite from the everyday let down of continuous closeouts. Yes, in certain times of the year (think Spring & Fall) when both swell generating hemispheres of the globe are working together in perfect symbiotic harmony, crossed up combo swells will arrive as the surfers’ answer to super fun, spread out, uncrowded surf. As the swells from different sources approach the coastline, their energies combine to create amazingly wedgy, peaky, A-frame barrels that will make you think found a secret spot in your own backyard or just mindsurfed your way into another all expenses paid surf trip (keep dreamin’ bud!). By all accounts, the combo swell scenario doesn’t happen all that often and doesn’t even need to be all that big to produce surprisingly fun surf. It’s a a rare but welcome anomaly of stoke perpetuating bliss. The combo swell casts a wide net on surf sesh possibilities that helps to spread out the crowds on the usually overburdened pointbreaks, reef breaks, and marquee surf spots that would normally be inundated with the “oops, I accidently dropped in on you” Wilbur Kookmeyer crew and the ever present, card carrying ambassadors of the local stink eye movement (see Localism). Combo swells are there to greet the surfer in times of need when yet another “2 pump chump” to closeout combo just won’t cut it. Next time one shows up at your local break – get on it!! You’ll be stoked you did!

SSL Feature – Karim Rejeb’s Stopmotion Surfing Video!!!

ssl — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 04:13:55 +0000

This video was sent to us by a wise friend who values those obscure, out of the ordinary things. It’s definitely worth a few minutes of your time to watch this gem of a creative masterpiece! Just imagine you’re a pint sized Legomaniac ripper ruling the surfing world and the rest will fall into place. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkF6hLmZ3qs

#31 The “Shaka”

ssl — Thu, 20 May 2010 21:23:21 +0000

Within the realm of surfer sign language, nothing says aloha more than the infamous shaka! Born and bred out of the islands, the shaka is all about perpetuating good vibes, mutual respect, and being stoked. Consisting of nothing more than an outstretched thumb and pinky with the three middle fingers folded into the palm (try look), the shaka is an indelible fixture within the indigenous Hawaiian culture. Used regularly by Hawaiian locals as a warm greeting or whenever a driver is allowed to pass another (unlike the Mainlander Haole), the shaka is chock full of “hang loose” island stylie living. Its origins are sketchy at best but like many far-fetched fish stories the shaka has its very own fanciful fairy tale (see history).

Back on “Da Mainland”, the shaka loses a bit of it’s aloha spirit. While it is well known and used by surfers it generally maintains a different context than is found in the Islands. Much like the hokey nature of puka shells and $1 touristy postcards, the shaka is more a novelty item reserved for cornball hand gestures in late night photo opps (in addition to Westside & other assorted gang references) or on surf trips to add spice to yet another picture of you in front of a palm tree. It can also be seen being used in loose reference to Turtle’s epic “shaka-kadda-fadda-braddah” montage in the final scene of the classic Rick Kane surf saga – North Shore. Unfortunately for haole surfers, to take the shaka seriously is setting oneself up to look like a major Wilbur. It’s one of those subtle cultural nuances that cannot easily be bridged (much like white people trying to rap). Nonetheless, whether you’re the “The Kanaka Maoli” (indigenous Hawaiian) or just some haole to the max surfer, the shaka is a solid addition to any surfers’ sign language repertoire. Use it sparingly amongst your daily “fist bumping” and secret club handshake greetings. Shaka Brah!!

West Coast Surf Video Premiere of Taylor Steele’s “Castles in the Sky”

ssl — Tue, 18 May 2010 07:19:04 +0000

“Castles In The Sky” Movie Trailer: http://vimeo.com/10957583

*After three years of exploring and pioneering new coastlines in every corner of the earth, award winning surf filmmaker, director, and producer Taylor Steele , executive producer Sandrine Lima of Reel Sessions, and VAS Entertainment present the World Premiere of Taylor’s latest project “Castles in the Sky”!

Castles In the Sky is a visual whirlwind that follows surfers to the farthest reaches of the known surf world and beyond. Castles in the Sky is a completely new approach to surf filmmaking. Filmed in five countries over three years, the movie delves into the true heart of the locations while the surfers travel through them with a sense of open-minded awe. With never-before seen waves, an original score, and some of the best surfers in the world such as Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds, Rob Machado and Dave Rastovich contributing their art, passion and athleticism, this is as close to the experience of pioneering new coastlines as you can get without getting on a plane.

Starting next Tuesday, May 18th, Castles in the Sky will be premiering in Los Angeles, San Diego, and San Francisco California for your viewing enjoyment. Check it out!!!

(*text courtesy of Taylor Steele’s Poor Specimen Productions, Reel Sessions, & VAS Entertainment)

LOS ANGELES
Where: Arclight Hollywood Cinema
6360 West Sunset Blvd
Los Angeles, CA
When: Tuesday, May 18th, 2010 at 8pm & 9:30pm

SAN DIEGO
Where:La Paloma Theater
471 S. Coast Hwy 101
Encinitas, CA
When: Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 at 7pm & 9pm

SAN FRANCISCO
Where:Great Star Theater in Chinatown
630 Jackson Street
San Francisco, CA
When: Friday, May 21st, 2010 at 9pm

#30 Car Key Stash Pockets

ssl — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 02:34:12 +0000

It’s a promising day of surf as the surfer rolls up to their favorite spot in their trusty surf vehicle. After a brief wave check it’s affirmative that the waves are going off!! Nothing left to do now but quickly change in public, wax up the board, and paddle out for yet another epic surf session. Just one lingering detail to figure out, a BIG one in fact – Where to put the car keys? It’s a question that has perplexed the surfing community for decades now as we continually look for better ways to safeguard our personal possessions and surf vehicles from would be thieves. It’s a fact that cannot be denied – Surfers are notorious targets for surf vehicle robbery. While we bob and float far out to sea oblivious to what may be happening back on shore to our ride, opportunistic and predatory crooks have full reign to take advantage of the easy pickings like a flock of rabid seagulls on an all out feeding frenzy. The simplest solution to all of this lies in a subtle, yet highly effective add-on component commonly fabricated into the back or leg panel of wetsuits, board shorts (more secure with a zippered pocket), and leashes. Better known as the “Car Key Stash Pocket”, this little gem devised by the surf industry provides us surfers with the reassuring piece of mind that our keys are safe and secure with us and not in the hands of some credit card stealing, identity theft perpetrating, vehicle joyriding kook (see this story). It’s a lifesaver that takes the guessing game out of the equation unlike other surfers whom would rather roll the dice with their peek a boo, I see you Hide-a-Key under the bumper routine, car keys stowed in the captain obvious gas cap gig, or the always popular “let’s bring all of our worldly possessions down to the beach” in an unattended grab bag “free for all” special. It must be mentioned that in addition to the Car Key Stash Pocket, a healthy dose of common sense goes a long way in protecting assets (i.e.- don’t leave valuables in the vehicle or expensive items showcased on the dashboard of the vehicle like a voluptuous window display at Victoria Secrets screaming “take me Big Boy!”) For other surfers who have not adopted the genius of the Car Key Stash Pocket or are wary to do so (microchip in key & salt water = bad) there are other options available on the market (albeit pricier & perhaps a bit flaunting = “come try & break into me”) such as the Hitch Safe Key Vault if you have a truck or the Australian Surf Lock product which can be attached to any vehicle. Just don’t go forgetting the key code or you might be left out in the cold shivering in yer booties! Don’t be “Dat Guy!” When in doubt, keep things simple. Stash it in the car key stash pocket and surf well into the evening glass off session with confidence. Don’t worry, your surf vehicle will be there waiting for you. We promise!!!! (Legal Disclaimer – Don’t hold us to it bro. We’re only trying to make the obvious point that car key stash pockets rule! Grip it & rip it!!)

#29 “Accidently” Dropping In (a.k.a. – Cutting Others Off!)

ssl — Wed, 21 Apr 2010 17:38:41 +0000

In surfing there’s a well established code of conduct that surfers live by in order to maintain some sense of sanity and safety in the lineup. Aside from caveman like “meet me at the beach” ass whoopings by Chuey, it’s the only civilized way we surfers know to keep order in a world of crowded surf chaos. Also known as “surf etiquette”, it’s the surfers’ Ten Commandments of ethical and sportsman like behavior. While all of the rules within the surfers’ code of conduct are worth following, perhaps the most important one and concurrently most abused rule of them all would have to be the; “thou shall not drop in on or cut off thy surfer brother!” It’s amazing how a concept so blatantly simple and obvious in theory can be so misconstrued (or ignored) for personal gain! Alas, like the competing rhetoric of the devil and the angel on the shoulder routine, this rule seems destined to be broken time and time again. To add fuel to the fire; throw a little ego into the equation, perhaps a healthy dousing of localism and see what you get. Or maybe toss a bunch of surf starved surfers into a tight takeoff spot or into a long period swell scenario with agonizingly long lulls and inconsistent set waves and see how quickly the golden rule of surfing fades away. At one point or another (a.k.a. – nearly every session with a crowded lineup) the fragile equilibrium between surf etiquette and personal gain/greed will be breached. When this happens, the most typical reaction by surfers is actually no reaction at all but rather to denounce all responsibility of wrongdoing or act like the instance of dropping in on another surfer never even happened! This brings us to every surfer’s favorite rationalized self serving statement – “It was an accident bro, I didn’t see you!” Other honorable mentions include; “I didn’t think you’d make that section” or the rather worthless, after the fact apology – “sorry bro, I didn’t mean to cut you off” when the damage is already done. “Accidently Dropping In” by all accounts is at pandemic levels of contagiousness within the surfing community these days. Question Is – “Are you infected?” If so, it might be best to re-evaluate your stance on the issue. After all, paybacks a bitch when you’re screaming down the line on the set wave of the day only to be “accidently” dropped in on by yet another fellow member of the “it was an accident” drop in club! Irony at its finest!

Introducing StuffSurfersLike.Com’s Online Store – Cool Products for the “In The Know” Bro!

ssl — Sun, 11 Apr 2010 07:55:06 +0000

Yeap, we did it!! We officially sold out and made an online store so we can make some fast cash and retire handsomely in our trailer rig down in Baja. Just a few quick sales and we’ll be sitting pretty drinking warm Tecates and wondering if our innards can handle the impending Montezuma’s Revenge. Yummy!! So help us out by buying some of our delectable food groups of hats, t-shirts, and “buy my poster” paraphernalia & stickers. We’ve chosen some of our best surf inspired doodlery from the blog as well as a collection of wanderlust photos and artwork to stoke you out in style! Give it a look and check back often as we add new selections to the store. As always, thanks for your ongoing support and see ya in the water!

http://www.zazzle.com/stuffsurferslike

SSL Crew

#28 Secret Spots

ssl — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 21:03:21 +0000

There’s a place at the end of the road, a surf spot to be exact, that by its sheer location and hard to reach obscurity has left it pure and unvarnished from human touch; a spot that surfers can still call their own within the rapidly developing world as we know it. Collectively referred to as “Secret Spots”, they are the proverbial dark horse within the underground black market of surf spots. They’re the epitome of what surf dreams are made of – untapped, exotic, pumping uncrowded surf. Secret spots ooze of adventure and wanderlust discoveries straight out of a Treasure Island novel. Surfers lucky enough to find them not only get to score epic surf but purportedly lay claim to a resource that is in short supply these days. To what extent they shamelessly brag about scoring epic surf (thus exposing the spot) or guard their new found secret spot with a passion (see Localism) is up to the individual surfer. As with any secret, once the cat’s out of the bag it is no longer a secret anymore. Once exposed, surfers will inevitably arrive in droves to seek out their own piece of the secret spot paradise. This is why surfers often talk about secret spots in such hushed, cryptic tones. Some might even go so far as to carry the secret with them to the grave. After all, why bring sand to the beach when it’s already the perfect balance for those chosen few already “in-the-know”? At the end of the day, a secret spot is only a secret if it remains privy information to a select few. Like winning the lottery jackpot, it’s often better just to keep it to yourself. “Secret Spots” – can you keep a secret?

#27 Offshore Winds

ssl — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 05:59:47 +0000

It’s pre-dawn and the surfer is awakened out of yet another surf infused dreamlike slumber by the erratic rat-a-tat-tat of a tree branch outside their window pane. Down the street the unmistakable melodic tones of the neighbor’s wind chimes sing their way through the musical scales of space, time, and air into the auditory senses of the surfer’s subconscious state like an early morning lullaby calling the surfer to action. As grogginess gives way to consciousness, the surfer takes note that this time something is different, something unique, something surfy. As if drawing from some ingrained 6th sense left over in our d.n.a. from cave man times, the surfer feels the change in the air, the hair rising off their skin, the sight unseen visualization that maybe, just maybe, a healthy swell will be there to meet this mystical anomaly of tight isobars meets impending surf stoke. As the surfer pulls up to check the surf all suspicions are confirmed. Waves can be seen reeling in from all directions like a surf porno convention. The permagrin on the surfer’s face beams radiant; equal if not greater than the illuminating light of the rising sun on the incoming swell lines. Not a drop of water is out of place on the open ocean canvas today. Waves continue to march in unleashing their energy in feathering peacock displays of spume and spray dancing in the early morning light. The invisible visitor from a land interior is hard at work grooming the open wave faces like a fine toothed comb. Not too much to think about now. Just need to get out there and get it while the getting is good! After all, these types of conditions don’t happen everyday or last that long when they do (unless of course you happen to be in Nicaragua – score!). For now we will embrace them wholeheartedly. We value the fact that your wave sculpting ways have a way of transforming what would have been mediocre conditions at best into epic, memorable sessions that are forever ingrained in our mental surf slideshow archives.

Thank you “Offshore Winds”! We salute you!

Ode to Offshore Winds: Offshore Winds – You Rule!!! You can crash at our local surf break anytime, we won’t mind at all!! Just come on over. Our choppy surf needs your personal touch and attention. As an added bonus, we will give you cool nicknames such as “Santa Ana”, “Santana”, or “Devil Wind”. You have a lot of fans here. Don’t let us down! In the meantime, here in So. Cal we’ll count on seeing you in full blown effect during the Fall, Winter, and random Dawn Patrols for our pre-requisite visiting rights. Don’t be shy. We’re counting on you! In fact, we NEED you! Feel free to show “Onshore Winds” who’s the boss! He blows (but in the wrong way, doh!!). We’ll be waiting for you; surfboards waxed, looking for wide open gaping barrels to score, courtesy of you Mr. Blowhard Offshore Wind.

Until Then, Yours Truly,

Surfer Dude

P.S. – Try not to start any more fires when you come around next time. We don’t want you getting a bad rap up in here! At times, your favorable wind patterns (while great for surfing) can cause things to heat up and not in that oozing of sexuality Pam Anderson Baywatch moment from back in the day sort of way. Keep your mind out of the gutter and away from your pyromaniac ways of fire & brimstone. Let’s keep things focused on finessing our fine surf. After all, your wicked devil wind induced fires can cause a lot of property damage, cost a lot of money to put out (we’re out of $ in Cali), and contribute to surfers’ black lungs when scoring epic conditions like these supersedes common sense during raging wildfires. At any rate, we’ll see you soon…………………!

#26 Surf Vehicles

ssl — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 06:15:18 +0000

As surfers, we love bragging about scoring epic surf, getting barreled, checking the waves, and peeing in our wetsuits (86% according to latest survey!). It’s a fact – we can’t help ourselves! But what we often take for granted besides our surfboards and a solid underlying swell to ride them on is a decent set of wheels specially formulated and customized to meet our varying personalities and demanding surfing needs that will get us to the surf when and where we need them. Surf Vehicles as we like to refer to them are an essential logistical element of the overall surfing experience. Without them, sadly many surf sessions would be lost. They are the link between being there at the right time, right place vs. twiddling our thumbs in agony as we watch perfect drainers unveil before our eyes on some far removed computer screen miles away from the action. Besides, who can really bear to hear the cliché “ya should have been here yesterday” line again by the time you finally bum a ride and show up to surf. Do yourself a favor – Get a surf vehicle and get it while the getting is good!

The modern day surf vehicle comes in a variety of surf scoring packages ranging from barely operable to economy class on up to the “high society” roving land yacht. Whatever flavor a surfer chooses (or can afford), there are a few basic necessities a surfer needs in order to operate and maintain a fully functioning surf vehicle. First and foremost there needs to be some space available either inside (preferred) or on the roof via surf racks (lockable) to securely stow and transport their coveted wave riding vehicles. Next, unless you’ve always had an underlying passion to harvest mold spores, the surf vehicle will need to be equipped with a self contained, waterproof Tupperware container to store all those wet, soggy, pee infused wetsuits and rash guards (sick!!). Other “nice to have” options are a changing mat for changing in public, a ding repair/ First Aid kit for mending those rail cracks and mere flesh wounds on the fly, a water jug or portable shower to wash off the funk, a sun visor for the dash to protect your ride from internal 3^rd degree burns, and some bumping beats for the pre-surf pump up inspiration. Perhaps the most difficult aspect of choosing a surf vehicle lies in the balancing act between surf practicality vs. everyday luxury (i.e.- what might get readily thrashed by a constant influx of salt, sand, and melted surf wax on those nice leather seats). Keep in mind, a surfers’ vehicle receives more annual accumulation of sand than some ski resorts receive in snow over seasons! Unless you enjoy obsessing about your vehicle or berating you bros about every speck of sand on their feet, you might save yourself a lot of time vacuuming and some friendships by keeping things simple, salty, and surfy.

As usual here at SSL, we couldn’t help but delve deeper into some of the more colorful surf vehicles you might come across in any surf town or feral surf trip excursion. While it would be nearly impossible (and not nearly as fun!) to commemorate every make and model of surf vehicle out there, we have chosen a generalized selection of surf vehicles that we feel add a bit of flavor to the everyday surfing mix. Read on… you just might recognize or drive one of these awesome (…..or not so awesome) surf vehicles yourself!

The Creepy “Chester Molester” Surf Van – If B.A. Barrachus (a.k.a. – “Mr. T”) was still wrecking shit in his A-team van, he’d “pity da fool” that drove this thing! Often parked (emphasis on “Parked!”) near beachside parks or at the end of your street for days, weeks, or even months on end (until the cops get wind), these vehicles are more extend-a-stay surfside accommodation than everyday transportation (think Randy Quaid in “Christmas Vacation”). While The Creepy “Chester Molester” Surf Van” might be on the hotlist for a new vehicular Megan’s Law, here’s one not so creepy surf van we feel can park at the end of our block anytime they want!

The Grom Mobile – The Grom Mobile can take many forms depending on the demographics and income brackets of the parents who give them these hand me down (see “Beater” below) surf vehicles to be…. (Unless of course they happen to be “Trustafarians-In-Training” (TITs) or Silver Spoons – See “Yuppie Ride” below). Within the first week of acquiring their license and scoring their set of “hell on wheels”, The Grom Mobile will be plastered with a fresh coating of “buy my poster” surf stickers representing the various food groups of the surf industry and “counter-culture” establishments. Rolling up to their favorite surf breaks with half the neighborhood in tow, The Grom Mobile is like a roving party boy limo busting mad beats, heart tinged emo chords, pop punk, and any genre of underground music that nobody has ever heard of but will unfortunately now (can you say – “ear rape”?) if they happen to be within a 2-mile radius. The Grom Mobile is a grom’s first taste of freedom from mom and dad and a catalyst for surfing new and far away breaks previously unknown. No longer relegated to bumming rides from older brothers/sisters, friends, and soccer moms, The Grom Mobile provides an all out feeding frenzy of new experiences for the Grom and rightfully so. After all those years of riding a bike back home in the dark, surfboard in tow, wetsuit dripping, and completely spent from surfing all day; the young Grom now claims what is rightfully theirs (a license!!) as they no longer have to feel that shuddering blast of loser denial whilst cars go flying past with heaters on full blast!

The Beater - Feeling like taking a nice leisurely Sunday drive down to Mexico? Looking to transport yourself and as many of your bros as possible into sketchy 3^rd world countries lickety split? Do you sometimes fantasize about letting the parking brake go and watching a free fireworks display as your car careens into the ravine? Well then my friend, you are the next contestant on The Beater Car network!! This car comes complete with peeling paint, an oil guzzling addiction, and very questionable reliability (Sound good!!? It’s yours!!). It could keep going like the Energizer Bunny for another 100,000 miles or it might just conk out around the next desolate corner with no help for miles – it’s anybody’s guess really. The Beater as its name implies is “BEAT” but that’s not always such a bad thing when you’re trying not to draw too much attention to yourself. A good option for flying under the radar in foreign countries, getting a tax write-off when you donate it to charity, or for use as a hand me down Grom Mobile.

The Yuppie Ride – If Richie Rich grew up to be a surfer, he’d probably opt for one of these top-of-the-line vehicles and have his butler detail it for him after every surf. Known as the Beamers, Mercedes, Audi’s, Porsche’s, and Range Rovers of the high end car industry; the Yuppie Rides are excellent choices for hitting the town, commuting to work, and entertaining clients, but not so great for mixing salt, sand, boards, wax, and stinky wetsuits with leather and expensive fixtures. In addition, these are not the type of vehicles that you would want to drive into crime ridden countries or leave unattended for long periods of time on the side of the road while surfing. The Yuppie Ride almost always comes equipped with an alarm system that lulls its neighbors to sleep with ear wrenching lullabies at odd hours of the night while effectively deterring absolutely zero would be criminals.

(Ode to Car Alarm – “Dear Car Alarm that goes off for hours on end in the middle of the night. No one is coming to rescue you or calling the police on behalf of your incessant, obnoxious screeching. Please die a timely death like all outdated, worthless technology eventually does. Adieu!!”).

The Woodie – The Woodie is a flashback to an earlier era in surfing history. Known as a “Woodie” because it typically comes coated with a wood veneer on the back 2/3^rd’s of the vehicle, the Woodie was the real deal surf mobile back in the days of Gidget and Dora. These are collector cars nowadays and there are even several well established road shows and parades dedicated to these classic surf vehicles. Ask your dad or grandpa – they know! For more on Woodies and their rich surf based history check out this site.

The Compact Cruiser (a.k.a. “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride” or “Lil Pepe) – The Compact Cruiser is a lightweight, gas efficient, no frills breed of surf vehicle. Typically taking the form of a small car or hatchback model; they shake, rattle, and roll like a flimsy tin can and you may at times feel like a simple gust of wind could be your final demise. On a positive note, they do get the surfer from Point A to B without breaking the bank (i.e. – Economical = Good). It’s usually necessary to put the boards on the roof with a set of sturdy surf racks to save room (unless of course you enjoy sitting on your bro’s lap as boards prod you in the ass). Some models come with retractable back seats to put boards in through the trunk or there’s always the option of reclining the front passenger seat to tote your board around town like a hot date. Get a room you two!!

The Big Boy Tonka Truck (a.k.a. – “I have a small wee wee”) – Let’s get one thing straight – Monster Truck Rally’s rule!! They air over cars and crush stuff (we like it, carnage is cool!!) But driving a monster truck on a daily basis on municipal roads for work or surf just seems silly. They suck up liquid gold gas quicker than an OC golddiggin’ housewife looking for a divorce without a pre-nup and they’re a bitch to park. What are you trying to prove anyways? (or make up for!!??) It becomes even lamer when you know that the person driving it has never taken their ride off-road or if it even comes equipped with 4-wheel drive to begin with (puulleasee!!). Luckily there is a saving grace in this category as exhibited by Brian Conley’s large n’ in charge “Hurricane Hunter”. Clocking in at a paltry $100,000 investment, this beast has all the bells and whistles a surfer needs to hit the dusty road and score epic uncrowded waves in far away, desolate places (think Baja, Mexico). This ride is 5-Star accommodations on the fly. I wonder if he picks up hitchhikers?

The Surf RV – When most people think of RV’s they get a mental image of senior citizens touring our nation’s network of state parks and recreational areas in oversized mobile homes whilst driving an obnoxiously geriatric speed of 40 mph in the fast lane. All that was thrown out the window the moment “The Drive Thru Surf Series” was released to the modern surfing world. This wanderlust surf series throws several world class surfers into a sweaty, cramped RV for two week road trips through some of the planet’s most ripe, wave rich zones. While we’re pretty certain it would blow to drive this rig on an everyday basis, it could be fun to wreak havoc in on a surf road trip (just don’t ask us to park the beast!).

The Surf Trip Rental Car – These cars take a real beating! Depending on where you travel (or who you travel with) you might just want to save yourself the pain and pony up the extra insurance to foot the impending bill. The Surf Trip Rental Car gets thrashed day in and day out with salt, sand, sweat and body odors from every orifice (think hotboxing full of farts and 3^rd World gastrointestinal goodness seasoned with a side of extra humid tropical heat – check please!!). This car screams tourist, gringo, haole, or whatever derogatory word the world has come up with to describe “out of place” and “not local”. Potential mishaps that can occur (hence the insurance) from order of severity are the random flat tire, the entire desecration of the vehicle’s undercarriage due to leviathan sized 3^rd world potholes, flipping over of the vehicle whilst driving highly intoxicated on the beach (See Dude Cruise), or the ever popular locking the car only to have the windows busted out and items stolen as a welcoming gift (thanks Costa Rica!).

The “Super Deluxe” 4X4 Surf Van (a.k.a. – Baja Destroyer!!) – If Xzibit had the steez to pimp a surfers’ ride, he would undoubtedly produce a beauty like this! This surf vehicle has it all! Specially customized to accommodate the latest and greatest gadgetry as well as serious 4×4 muscle under the hood, The “Super Deluxe” 4×4 Surf Van is a surfer’s wet dream for wanderlust surf excursions in style!

The VW Bus/ Vanagon – The VW Bus is a classic surf vehicle hailing from the hippidy dippity, “far out” days of the 60’s and 70’s. It along with its updated counterpart – The Vanagon, is synonymous with extended surf treks and camping out by the beach for days or weeks on end to score epic surf (think camping out in Hossegor, France milking the swell). It comes Spicoli pre-approved and is voted most likely to showcase a large selection of earth friendly, politically oriented bumper stickers on its exterior (See “Coexist”, “Grateful Dead”, but probably not this one).

The Surf Scooter – The Surf Scooter is the surfers’ solution for short trips up and down the coast. It is especially helpful during the Summer months for weaving in and out of traffic and for finding an often times non-existent parking spot. Outfitted with a surf rack on the side, the Surf Scooter is a peppy, gas efficient solution for the surfer who likes to air dry on the way home from a surf sesh. To learn more click here.

#25 Point Breaks

ssl — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 03:32:43 +0000

Within the surf break strata; there is a highly sought after type of wave that surfers froth over for its overall length of ride and shreddability. Commonly referred to as a “Point Break” (No, not the cheesy 1991 movie Bodhi!!), they are the surfers’ Holy Grail for long, drawn out turns and extended flow mojo. Just uttering the word conjures up images of famous point breaks like Malibu, Rincon, Pavones, Kirra, Chicama, Raglan, Mundaka, and Jeffreys Bay to name a few. While not all point breaks are created equal or even world class for that matter, they are often far superior to the fickle beach break scenario and its ever present 2 pump chump closeout routine. Point breaks are like the Autobahn speedway of surf breaks allowing the surfer a bit more breathing room to stretch their legs, put the pedal to the metal, and let loose on the open ocean highway with a series of highline speed drives, buckets of spray inducing whack-em’s, and styled out soul turns. On their best days, point breaks become a lesson in geometry and perfect symmetry. Long period open ocean swells wrap in off the point and funnel down the beach at nearly right angles as tapering walls of whitewater pitch down the line in hypnotizing succession. Rides can be so long and surreal that surfers often have to pinch themselves just to make sure they’re not dreaming or still mindsurfing back on the beach for that matter. In addition to their stoke inducing qualities, point breaks also offer up logistical advantages affording the surfer the option of walking back up the point to catch another wave rather than paddling back out (a useful technique that saves the surfer from unnecessary “noodle arm-itis” after especially long rides). It’s the type of wave where your legs are liable to conch out on you before your arms do from the sheer length of ride – a very rare and enviable occurrence indeed in the sport of surfing!

Point Breaks are true gems in an ocean full of featureless bottom contours and straight angled coastlines. One look at Google Earth and it becomes painfully obvious that certain parts of the Globe have an abundance of these wave tapering topographies while other coastlines get the shaft (think East Coast of USA). To the detriment of the surfer, point breaks are a feast or famine type of proposition. It’s almost as if when God created the Earth in 7 days he hit the snooze button on the “point break creation proclamation” blessing certain locales with 2 parts rock, 1 part headland, while leaving other areas to squabble over shifty sandbars and a fleeting prayer that tomorrow will finally be the day when the waves don’t closeout. All blasphemy aside, there are point breaks out there that have yet to be discovered and are being discovered on a daily basis. Take for instance the running of Rip Curl’s WCT Event at the once obscure right-hander down in Mexico known as “La Jolla” or the amazing footage of Cory Lopez getting shacked silly on a never ending lefthander somewhere in Africa. And who can forget the classic footage of two young surfers ascending that last sand dune to find untapped point break perfection at Cape St. Francis in Bruce Brown’s epic “Endless Summer” documentary. Just another day of living the dream – seek and ye shall score!!

DailySurfVideos.Com – Get Your Fix!!

ssl — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 04:45:05 +0000

Here at SSL we spend a lot of time surfing and thinking about surfing. It’s an addiction (yes, we admit it), but one where we won’t be seeking out any Dr. Drew rehab anytime soon to cure it – nope, we’re good to go, thanksss!! When we’re not too busy surfing we spend a good amount of time nerding out on the internet in search of new surf related content and watching surf videos to pass the time. Heck, we even wrote a post about it (#6 Surf Videos – to be exact). So it should come as no surprise that it was only a matter of time before we came across this kick ass site called DailySurfVideos.com to satisfy our voyeuristic surf video cravings. Updated daily (yes, the name implies it); DailySurfVideos.com hand selects vintage and new school surf footage with the expertise and extra sensory perception of a Master Surf Jedi. We liked it so much that we’ve dedicated a permanent feed to it on our site (check out right hand side of page – Whammy!!) so that you never have to feel lost and in a pre-surf funk without your daily surf video fix. We strongly recommend it as your one-stop-shop for your pre-surf ritual to get dialed into the seek n’ destroy mindset. It’s also a good fall back plan when you’ve overstayed your welcome “borrowing” other bros’ surf videos or you don’t have $30 bucks burning a hole in your pocket to buy a video that you’ll only watch a few times anyways before lending it out to a bro only to never see it again (vicious cycle, grrr!!). Check them out, you’ll be stoked you did!!

#24 Being “Stoked”!

ssl — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 19:11:36 +0000

Few things personify the surfing spirit like the feeling of being “stoked”! Born out of 1960’s beach blanket bingo swagger, being “stoked” is the ultimate high and form of ecstatic expression amongst surfers the world over. It’s that highly sought after Zen state of surfer nirvana where scoring epic waves or relishing in a positive set of circumstances envelops the surfer with waves of euphoria and shit eating perma-grins. Being “stoked” is that fuzzy feeling of exhilaration and insatiable rush of endorphins one gets from screaming down the face of a wave and getting barreled, it’s that loving bond you develop after getting a new surfboard, the adventure you get from taking a surf trip, or just getting it good on the dawn patrol with uncrowded surf. Being “stoked” is a state of mind that isn’t going out of style anytime soon. Get out there and get some! There’s an infinite supply around the next corner if you’re only willing to look!

The word “stoked” is by far one of surfing’s most popular adjectives. “Dude, I’m stoked!”, “We’re so stoked!”, “You’re STOKED!!!” are all in a days work for the modern day surfer. Hang around with surfers long enough and you will undoubtedly bear witness to its use as one of surfing’s most prolific everyday surf lingo vernacular. It’s a word that knows no bounds, especially when spending time with those who like to brag about scoring epic surf, watching copious amounts of Fuel TV, or if you happen to find yourself hanging out at surf industry functions like the Surfer Poll Awards, ASR (serious bro-down), or a WCT winner’s podium in which case you will hear a lot of it! It’s moments like these where you could probably get drunk off your face if you decided to play drinking games every time a surfer uttered the word. Nevertheless, being “stoked” is nothing to be ashamed of but rather embraced. It’s a celebration of good times, great waves, and the recognition of the many ways the surfing lifestyle enhances our daily lives. It’s there for us like a shield to protect us from all the clueless naysayers trying to bring the surfer dude down. Being “stoked” like surfing is more than just a word but a way of life. Be stoked that you’re a surfer and know the difference. Keep the stoke alive!

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#23 Flip Flops

ssl — Mon, 01 Feb 2010 23:24:50 +0000

In the world of surf apparel where casual fashion meets function; there is perhaps nothing more iconic of the surfer and the surfing lifestyle than the classic flip flop (also known as “sandal”, “slippah”, “thong”, or “go aheads”). It is by far the footwear of choice amongst surfers the world over. Consisting of nothing more than a Y thonged strap inset into a rubber sole to hold the toes in, the flip flop is simplistic ingenuity at its finest. Its convenient slip on, slip off functionality lends itself well to the casual surfer lifestyle where wearing shirts is often optional and sporting boardshorts is a way of life. For those surfers who might have just as easily gone barefoot through life, the flip flop provides a refined solution for getting around town or for patronizing those demanding “no shirt, no shoes, no dice” type of restaurant establishments. They have also saved many a surfer from imminent 3rd degree burns on countless hot, sunny days where haole feet and lava hot sand don’t mix (Black sand beaches – Really??!! Can we turn it down a notch?!!)

For surfers, flip flops are practically a part of our d.n.a. Just as surfing is seen as pure freedom, flip flops are liberation for our feet. They’re like a convertible with the top down throwing inhibitions (..and possibly toe jam) to the wind. Sauntering down to our favorite beaches for a quick surf, the flip flop is there for us and our feet in their time of need. They wait for us patiently while we surf and are there to greet us as we get out of the water just so long as they don’t wear a hefty price tag on them beckoning “come steal me!” (i.e.- only cost $20 or less) or somebody’s dog didn’t mistake them as a chew toy. Surfers quickly grow attached to their flip flops forming bonds of embedded toe and heel prints into the body of the sole. But much like a six month High School romance, the writing is on the wall and one day the flip flop’s toe strap breaks and it’s all over before it really even had a chance to begin.

Ode to Flip Flop’s Passing: “R.I.P. dear Flip Flop. We will remember you and all the joy you brought our feet. We tried to resuscitate you but our MacGyver like attempt to reconnect the toe strap was amateur at best. We will try and recycle you so that you may come back in another life (presumably in a Chinese factory) and bring happiness to another surfer’s feet. Yours Truly, Surfer Dude”

To shed some more light on the array of flip flop options out there, SSL would like to recognize and poke fun at some of the companies that make these glorious flip flops. While nearly every major surf company sells them, we’d like to focus on the more core contenders who make it their business to produce the highest quality flip flops available. If we miss someone, please feel free to add them on our comments section and we can update the post as needed to include them. Enjoy!

Astrodeck: Well know for being one of the first in the industry to make traction pads, Astrodeck now makes sandals with the same traction patterns built into their sandals. Now you never have to lose that classic Astrodeck feeling of grip it and rip it!

Cobian: Their slogan is “Walk with us” and you may just want to as they make reasonably priced flip flops that hold up quite well over time.

Flojos: Flojos have been around since 1979 and were extremely popular back in the bitchin’ 80’s. They are making a comeback and have an especially popular girls line.

Havaianas: Hailing from Brazil, makes a simple, rubber thonged flip flop with the use of florals and bright colors. Popular with the ladies.

Kustom: Makes a wide range of comfortable rubber and leather flip flops worth checking out.

Locals: It used to be you could only get these if you were in Hawaii. Now they are available in select shops on the Mainland. They are a classic, very inexpensive flip flop worth having in the surf sesh repertoire.

Ocean Minded: A sustainably minded, earth friendly sandal company to the core. They use recycled plastics and materials to make their stylin’ flip flops. They also organize numerous beach cleanups and work to promote a cleaner environment through the sale of their products. When they’re not too busy saving the world, they’re adding to its beauty and our eye candy enjoyment by sponsoring surfer twin hotties like these.

Rainbow Sandals: This company makes very high end leather sandals that last a long time. In fact, it is not uncommon to see surfers wearing these flip flops for years until they are worn down to mere nubs, yet the toe strap survives! Worth the money and it has a great entrepreneurial rags to riches story behind its founding in a garage in Laguna Beach.

Reef: The undeniable leader in flip flops, sandals, thongs, whatever you want to call it. Speaking of thongs, just check out their Reef Brazil Ads! Enough said! They even make a Mick Fanning Pro Model Sandal complete with a bottle opener embedded in the underside of the sole for those who enjoy mixing bubble gum, toe jam, and residual dog poo with their beer of choice. All in all, pretty cool!

Sanuk: Sanuk flip flops are fun. They reek of creativity and funkadelic-ness. Like Ocean Minded, they are pretty earth friendly and they even make a flop in the likeness of an artificial putting green. Fore!!

Scott: Original Hawaii Sandals since 1932. Also called “Slippahs”. High end and last a long time like Rainbows. A good choice for upping your game on nights out whilst wearing your man blouse (no popping collar please).

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#22 Uncrowded Surf

ssl — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 02:39:04 +0000

Scoring good waves all to oneself or in a small group isn’t as easy as it used to be (in case you haven’t noticed!). With the advent of the internet and its slew of wave cams and forecasts, today’s surfer is forever hard pressed to get the goods all to themselves. Try as they may, other surfers just keep popping out of the woodwork at every turn. It’s all a bit disconcerting, yes, but a humbling reminder that the surfing population will only continue to grow while surf spots and waves remain fixed, finite resources. With the floating zoo sideshow in full effect at many of our favorite surf breaks, surfers are left to their own devices and methodologies to score waves and maintain sanity in the ever challenging, competitive conditions (See Localism). If only there were more waves to go around, less surfers shoulder hopping, or dare we even say less surfers!? While we won’t hold our breath on that last one happening anytime soon, surfers who bide their time can take solace in those rare moments when the circus leaves town, the kids go back to school, and the summer rental tourists pack it in for the season. Note – (That last sick cutback sequence you just did followed by 3 to the beach was not ignored. It was most assuredly observed & critiqued by every frothing surfer in the parking lot and wave cam jockey from here to the valley. Rest assured they’re packing their boards and on their way to join you in the lineup. Surf, surf, everyday surf!!!)

For the modern day surfer, scoring uncrowded surf is an illusive and trying endeavor to say the least. Short of paddling out down the beach to subpar waves or taking a far flung and oft times expensive surf trip, surfing locally and dealing with the crowds is the only option we have. Lo and behold, after enduring so many crowded sessions complete with paddle battles, back paddling, and copious amounts of stink-eye, eventually a day dawns where by cosmic forces of chance the local lineups thin out and uncrowded surf conditions reign. It is rare occasions like these that are cause for unadulterated celebration for the ever diligent surfer. As if in some alternative universe straight out of the Twilight Zone, the surfer may initially enter into a mild state of shock at their newfound good luck. They can’t help but second guess their enviable position. While they gorge themselves on the set waves of their choice, the surfer will mutter to themselves or a bro within earshot, “where is everybody?” knowing full well that they don’t want to know the answer or risk jinxing their amazingly uncrowded surf session. Periodically the surfer will frenetically scan the beach half expecting a mutant army of surf starved surfers to appear any minute around the bend like a zombie scene straight out of the movie “Night of the Living Dead”. If it’s really firing the surfers’ mind might start to play tricks on them such as, “was there a shark attack here?”; “am I asleep and only dreaming this?”; or “wow, I guess all that sewage runoff from the recent rain we just had really could be cause for contracting Hepatitis, super!” At the end of the day, the surfer will revel in their good fortune of getting it good without the hassles of a crowded lineup. This will of course be brought to every other surfer’s attention that wasn’t there in the form of more shameless bragging about scoring epic surf. This in turn will let the cat out of the bag on the uncrowded surf sitch and the next day will find 50+ eager surfers circumventing the lineup on a rumor that it was firing yesterday with nobody out. “Hmmmmm…..Might want to get it while the getting is good!! Crowds suck bro!!”

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#21 Wilbur Kookmeyer

ssl — Mon, 07 Dec 2009 02:27:59 +0000

Wilbur Kookmeyer was a much beloved cartoon character created by animator Bob Penuelas in the early 80’s. Wilbur first appeared in a more obscure comic strip known as “Maynard and the Rat” but quickly got his own gig starring in a 2 page animated spread in Surfer Magazine spanning from 1986 – 2006. The Wilbur Kookmeyer animated series was an overnight success amongst the surfing community. It took a gawky, buck toothed, bundle of loser denial and made him into the uncontested icon of “all things kook” for a generation of surfers. With his animated tales of kook-a-mania spreading far and wide across the land, Wilbur was so utterly “uncool” that he quickly transcended the gap into uber cool status! It was a social phenomenon much like the current popularity of wearing wretchedly tight black tapered jeans. Each new animation maintained the reliable yet addictive formula of Wilbur spouting off some big game about his surfing skills only to see him eat it hard, arms flailing in the final slides of the animation. It was all too predictable yet so gratifying at the same time for the fully captivated surfer. The Wilbur Kookmeyer comic series became so popular that the word ‘Wilbur’ is now a permanent fixture in every surfer’s lingo in the likes of “kook”, “barney”, and “haole to the max” to denote a proficient lack of style and surfing skill. Just recite – “Geez, there were a bunch of Wilburs out there in the lineup today!!” There ya go!!

The rise of Wilbur Kookmeyer’s popularity is perhaps unrivaled to this day in the echelon of surf animation. But while the Kookmeyer series might have seemed on the surface to be just another campy comic strip there was more than meets the eye. Beyond its scope of masterful animation and witty dialogue, the Wilbur Kookmeyer series was actually a satire of the rapidly commercializing surf industry and the desecration of the soul and individuality of the sport of surfing for profits sake. Wilbur personified and poked fun at all the wannabee surfers trickling into the surf scene in the mid-late 80’s as it suddenly became hip to be a surfer and look the part of the surfing lifestyle. He provided a humorous outlet for surfers to vent their frustrations at the rapidly homogenizing surf industry and the puka shell touting wannabees that bought into it. The underlying message of the comic strip was that surfing is not to be bought or sold and that if you still subscribe to that ideology, well then you’re just as Wilbur as Wilbur can be!! On a lighter note, the comic series was a genius composition of surf doodlery. Each animation was a work of art in its own rite. It helped to inspire a generation of burgeoning surf doodlers and bored out of their mind students to create works of surf art in their notebooks, trapper keepers, and paper bag covered school books rather than fall into a comatose induced drooling state upon their desk. Unofficial contests were held during lunch breaks to see who could draw the raddest waves and wanderlust surf imagery in the likeness of the Wilbur Kookmeyer strip’s exotic animated locales. It wasn’t until years later that animator Penuelas actually showed us the way by posting his “how to draw a cartoon wave- the Wilbur Kookmeyer way” series. Now there is no excuse to not be grinning ear to ear like a kindergartner when you post your latest surf doodle on the fridge!! Wilbur Kookmeyer – A Surfing Legend!!

#20 Paddling Out

ssl — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 04:47:14 +0000

Paddling out is at the core of any good surf session. It’s the tenacious and repetitive cycle that delivers a surfer from the landlocked confines of the beach and into the lineup to score some much needed surf. It’s a take it or leave it enterprise where the waves seen feathering on the outside are all the fuel a surfer needs to get out there and get some! Standing there on the beach, surfboard in hand – paddling out becomes the proverbial dangling of the carrot at the end of the stick for any surfer with a set of surf stoked eyes on the prize. It’s a means to an end that with some luck, agility, and experience will deliver the surfer out to the lineup and into some adrenaline pumping waves as quickly and effortlessly as possible. Now if we could only find a way to hitch a ride on some Jet Ski assist or air drop out of a helicopter into an idyllic tropical surf break in Bali like Andy & Bruce Irons did in Fuel TV’s ad campaign things would be so much easier. Hmmm… not betting Christmas on that one!

Paddling out is a highly variable experience for the surfer depending on when and where they choose to surf. Unlike other sports where the playing field remains static, in surfing, no two go-outs are ever the same. Paddling out requires dedication and mental as well as physical stamina to surmount the ever changing dynamics of the sea. Erratic cleanup sneaker sets, rip tides, and angry walls of whitewater are all potential game changers of the paddling out experience. One day conditions can be “surfer meets lazy river” where nary a hair gets wet and the next can produce an all out hell on earth paddle battle against detonating death walls of white water with your name on it! When conditions are large n’ in charge, the paddling out game re-writes itself entirely and only those willing to take a few beatings need apply. Paddling out becomes a series of heart thumping scratches for the horizon on par with a Michael Phelp’s Olympic qualifying 250 meter “mad-dash” as large black blobs rear their ugly heads from the depths of the oceanic abyss. It should come as no surprise to the surfer who challenges Mother Nature on her own turf that sooner or later they too shall have to pay the piper! These not so fun lickings can come in any variety of pain and panic inducing packages. One option could be the infamous “having your board ripped out of your hands with a side of rag dolling along the ocean bottom until you can’t breathe so well anymore” scenario. Or perhaps it’s the taunting heartbreak of nearly making it out to the lineup only to be sent packing for the beach as an angry outside canyon set swings your way, unleashing its wrath upon your vulnerable body like a calculated Mr. Miyagi Judo Chop to the head!! (Note -the only real benefit to this scenario is if you just so happened to scratch over that last bomber set wave. This affords you the right to chuckle ever so briefly at all the less fortunate surfers left behind in the meat grinder. Make sure not to laugh too long though – karma’s a biatch!!)

Whether conditions are macking or a mere doggie paddle at the wave pool with Rick Kane, paddling out is here to stay. It’s as much a part of surfing as riding waves, perhaps even more so. In fact, statistically speaking, surfers spend over 50% of their time paddling out and duckdiving with another 44% spent bobbing around in the lineup waiting for waves. The actual riding of waves is only a mere 4 – 6%!! With all the time surfers spend “not” surfing, perhaps some day in some far off existential surfing universe a surfer will compliment another surfer on some “nice paddling” versus catching a “sick wave”? Ok, admittedly not likely – probably just a pipedream born of oxygen deprivation from one too many brutal hold downs!! But for all of paddling’s shortcomings, it does provide a surfer some undeniable bonuses. For instance, it a) gets them into and out to multitudes of waves via their own motive power (i.e. – good exercise!), b) it provides them just the right amount of time to hoot their bros into waves as they scratch over the shoulder, c) gives the surfer time to curse themselves for kooking it on their last wave, d) allows them time to flaunt a shit eating grin for all to see as a testament to their freshly snagged epic ride, and perhaps most importantly, e) occasionally provides views like these! When in doubt, paddle out!!

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SoCalSurf.Com – Southern California Surf Forecast

ssl — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:15:38 +0000

Looking for a less robotic, more personalized surf forecast to add to your list of favorite surf websites to check out? Well, if you happen to live and surf in the Southern California area or are just planning a surf trip to visit our beaches, do yourself a favor and check out Adam Wright’s surf forecast blog. We’ve been following it for over a year now and are thoroughly stoked on the service. SoCalSurf.Com is updated almost daily, it’s highly accurate, and for those on a budget (who isn’t these days?) it’s FREE!!! The site now even breaks out customized surf forecasts for each specific surf region stretching from San Diego to Santa Barbara with intermittent commentary on points north, south, and globally. Perhaps the best part of checking out SoCalSurf.com’s surf forecasts besides getting dialed into the surf is laughing your ass off at Adam’s witty humor and smart ass commentary woven into each forecast post. It’s almost enough to make you crack a smile when the forecast heading reads a dismal and disconcerting: “Thursday’s Leftover’s – Hmmm smells like week old meatloaf“!!

Check it out @: http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/

#19 Bragging About Scoring Epic Surf (a.k.a.- “You Missed Out!”)

ssl — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 03:38:20 +0000

Surfers love the satisfaction that comes from scoring epic surf. It rejuvenates the soul and replenishes the stoke meter like no other. Fully spent and noodle armed, the surfer basks in the afterglow of an amazing surf sesh as they fondly reflect on their cornucopia of epic rides. Bit by bit, the message that materializes to the surfer becomes glaringly obvious – they just got it good, really good! The feeling of euphoria overwhelms the surfer like a powerful, tranquilizing drug. Reluctant to call it last call on this après-surf party, the surfer clings to the only tool they have left in the arsenal – shamelessly bragging to others about how much they just scored! It’s a gloat fest feeding frenzy of epic proportions! No one will be spared the wrath of the bragging surfer’s self-promoting propaganda. Clear and simple, the message to all other surfers unlucky enough to bear witness to these attention seeking mongers rings loud and clear – “I scored and YOU MISSED OUT!!”

One might think that scoring epic surf in and of itself would be enough to satisfy even the most discerning surfer. But sometimes the sheer enjoyment of scoring great surf just doesn’t cut it. For these surfers, they need more, they need recognition! Determined to get their day in the sun, these surfers cannot help but browbeat their fellow bros about how they just missed the most epic session ever (really???) or how waking up for the dawn patrol decidedly makes them a better person. To make matters worse, in this technological age of hand held PDA devices and Web 2.0 social networking applications, no surfer is immune to the après-surf “You Missed Out” telecast. The surfer will showcase their “all-time” surf sesh like a guest plug on the Jay Leno Show to all of their Facebook and Twitter friends as well as unleashing a barrage of voicemails and celebratory texts only to those bros who were NOT present. It’s an unabashed cry for attention on the part of the bragging surfer which in no uncertain terms implies “I’m kind of a big deal!” and subsequently “Buy My Poster!!” Inevitably on the day after scoring epic surf, the surfer will unleash their final ace in the hole while checking the waves. When questioned by an unknowing surfer with a friendly “howsit look out there?” the response will ALWAYS be the quintessential surfer response of “it’s o.k., but you should have been here yesterday. It was Sooooo good!” Next time, do yourself a favor and don’t bother to ask! Rest assured you already know the answer.

(*Note - When in the presence of a gloating surfer, do not attempt to impart your own story or embellish upon your most recent crappy surf sesh down the street as this will get you nowhere. When in doubt, make up an excuse as to why you don’t have time to hear about their “all-time” surf sesh and run!! If not, prepare to grit your teeth and settle in for a nice 20 minute infomercial on how they scored, you didn’t, and how you should really get your priorities straight. If things get serious, they might even hand you a burned disc containing all of the photographic evidence of their sesh or invite you over to their house to watch the video. Sweet!!!??? Make a mental note to pay them back tenfold come your next surf trip. After all, sharing is caring!!!)

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#18 Localism

ssl — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 06:35:40 +0000

Every surfer has their favorite beach, surf break, or hometown they like to call their own. It gives them a sense of identity and provides nostalgic memories of great sessions past, friends, and community. Surfers often spend seasons, perhaps even a lifetime indoctrinating themselves into their lineups and the social strata pecking order that enforces them. Whether “born n’ bred” or a recent transplant to a surfing community, every surfer feels a sense of pride and entitlement (some more so than others) at the waves that break right outside their front door. It is this pride and sense of entitlement combined with finite resources (waves) and a hungry subset of surfers that sets up the perfect storm for what we surfers refer to as “localism”. Forced to scrap for waves, paddle battle for position, and compete head to head with other surfers like an episode of American Gladiators, surfers are pretty much left to their own devices and abilities to score waves in the competitive arenas better known as your town’s best surf breaks. It’s enough to make a surfer want to plan a surf trip stat just to get away from it all. Similar to mafia turf wars, the day-in, day-out struggle for dominance within the lineup is a constantly shifting paradigm. All too often, natural ability, putting in face time, and a strong desire to score waves just doesn’t cut it. For better or worse, this is where localism takes over. Are you ready to play?

Localism in a broader sense has been around since the beginning of time. It’s a “first come, first serve” feudal like claim to the resources of an area for the benefit of a privileged few. For surfers, it’s the taking over of a certain break or wave rich region for the rights to surf its superior waves unobstructed by the likes of outsiders and to those who might pose a threat to the optimal wave/surfer ratio. It is by all accounts a highly un-democratic process. But to those akin to the wild animal kingdom, localism is a social enigma where there are undeniable winners and losers. At its core essence, localism is a shamelessly selfish endeavor. It is like a powerful aphrodisiac for the ego minded surfer crew hell bent on total wave annihilation domination. It feeds upon itself in a vicious cycle of greed, intimidation, and resentment towards outsiders. To add fuel to the fire, take a world class marquee surf break and cram it full of a large group of talented, testosterone infused surfers who think they own the place and you’ve got a ticking time bomb of localism induced mayhem ready to explode!

Surfers afflicted with the self-righteous localism bug are very much the territorial dog marking their own territory whenever possible. These surfers like to leave endearing messages to other surfers like “No Kooks Allowed” or “Locals Only” etched into sidewalks with melted surf wax in a passive yet foreboding attempt to discourage outsiders from surfing their breaks with their sheepish “enter at your own risk” advertisements. Often times this type of tagging is accompanied by a reference to an obscure group or local crew who must have spent hours mulling over what to call themselves but ran out of ideas and decided that an area code designation like “The 949 crew” or “The 808 Posse” would surely suffice. Some better established groups like Da Hui as showcased in every surfer’s favorite movie – “The North Shore” have taken things to a completely different level, literally writing the book on localism and paving the way for other wannabe factions of localism to replicate themselves throughout countless lineups the world over.

Ask any surfer their opinion of localism and you will undoubtedly get mixed reviews. Proponents of localism will say it provides order in the lineup and encourages respect to those surfers who have paid their dues in earning their place in the lineup. Opponents will harp on the injustices of localism and its often Gestapo like enforcement of a few surfers’ rights to the best waves to the detriment of all the other surfers left scrambling for the scraps. And then there is the endless debate over what truly constitutes being a local in the first place? Is it contingent on having lived in the area all of your life (a.k.a. – born n’ bred) or is it more a combination of moving parts like how well a surfer surfs, how they are perceived or acknowledged by the community, or how assertive they are in the lineup? The issue of localism and what constitutes being a local is subject to a million different interpretations and is a source of constant debate and friction amongst the surfing community. At the end of the day, what surfers must really ask themselves is: “is localism for me?” and if so “how far am I willing to take it?” Life perspective is key on this issue and many surfers will fall to the dark side like Darth Vader. When in doubt, remember – “an asshole on land is an asshole in the water!” Keep that in mind as you internalize your stance on the issue of localism. Yeap, pretty much sums it up!

To further commemorate Localism, StuffSurfersLike would like to take this opportunity to poke some fun at the typical locals you might find floating around a lineup near you. After all, what would localism be without the colorful cast of characters that go along with it? Read on, you just might know one of these guys or be one of them yourself………

The Surly “Stink Eyed” Old Man Longboarder:

Every surf town has a ripe over abundance of these old timers. They typically sit way on the outside of a surf break in a “pow-wow” congregation with other members of their crew reminiscing about the good ol’ days and popping off dirty old man dialogue that they couldn’t get away with saying at home around the wifey or ex. They often drop in on anything and everything thus giving them their 2nd designation as “Local Wave Hog” due to their usually heavyset proportions and their propensity to snag every wave like a pig at the trough. When riding a wave, they usually exude a look of sheer determination conveying to other surfers, “by hell, you better get outta my way, I’m comin’ through!!!” In addition, these surfers generally discourage the use of leashes as a tribute to the good ol’ days when leashes didn’t exist and surfers had to swim for their boards after losing them. Be prepared to be run over or hit by one of their runaway boards only to receive a bountiful dose of stink eye as your apology when they see that you are wearing a leash (sissy stuff!!) Speaking of which, these old timers bring Stink Eye – “the look of utter disdain and disgust towards other surfers” to the ultimate level. Having swallowed the bitter pill years ago, it’s a wonder they still show up to the lineup on a regular basis and haven’t gone the ExPat route like so many of their former compadres that have since gone feral to stake their claim at surf breaks south of the border. (Of note, The Surly “Stink Eyed” Old Man Longboarder is a master manipulator within the local’s social hierarchy. They are like the Godfather. There isn’t anything they haven’t seen or done over their ancient history in the lineup. In fact, they probably wrote the playbook on Localism that is currently being used to wage power struggles in the surfer strata’s a few levels below.)

The Arrogant Washed Up Ex-Pro Surfer / Local Town Hero:

This surfer more than any other local probably deserves the rights and privileges that go along with scoring the best waves under the bylaws of Localism. They grew up in the area, put in their time, they rip, made a decent stab at making it as a pro surfer, and are well known by their local surfing community. Unfortunately for the other “local” surfers in the lineup who have to put up with this surfer, they won’t be scoring many set waves when this guy is around. The Arrogant Washed Up Ex-Pro Surfer / Local Town Hero surfer often has a big chip on their shoulder from not having made it in the big boy world of pro surfing. They are effectively a big fish in a small pond and they’re going to let everyone in their vicinity know it! With the implied backing of all the local bros, this surfer is pretty much free and clear to say or do whatever they want in the lineup creating an arrogant monster of epic proportions. This surfer will typically snub you, ignore you, or give you one word answers if you try and spark up a conversation with them or congratulate them on a sick wave they just caught. In rare circumstances, these surfers may converse with you if you happen to be accompanied by an industry “bro in the know” who could hook them up with a cush job in the surf industry (they’ll need it now). Watch out if you accidently get in the way of this surfer or effectively mess up their wave by inadvertently cutting them off. This is grounds for a splash battle, witnessing of a grown man doing his best impression of a 5 year old’s temper tantrum, or worse yet, an involuntary invitation to meet his buddy Chuey on the beach for a “talk”.

The Weekend Warrior:

The weekend warrior is a busy guy in and out of the water. He/she is pretty much the meat and potatoes of a local surfing community just trying to fit in a surf whenever they can find the time. Faced with more worldly obligations such as a steady 9-5 job, supporting their family, and bringing home the bacon, they typically have no concern or inclination to climb the social strata of a given surf break. Surfing is viewed as an opportunity to let loose and have fun rather than incur more stress over trivial matters such as localism. Their no nonsense, “let’s try and fit as many waves into this sesh as possible” mentality is the bane of the seasoned locals existence. In these instances, the “local” surfer will often paddle circles around The Weekend Warrior to let them know who’s boss and to try and validate some sense of control over the uncontrollable environment that is a weekend lineup. If it becomes too crowded or aggressive in the lineup for their tastes, The Weekend Warrior will often move up or down the beach in search of a less crowded wave to get their surfing fix before they have to head home for some yard work and a couple coldies in the lounge chair.

The Impressionable “Buy My Poster/ Sponsor Me” Surf Grom:

The Impressionable “Buy My Poster/ Sponsor Me” Surf Grom eats, sleeps, and breathes surfing. In their childhood innocence, their only concern is how quickly they can half-assedly complete their homework, score a ride to the beach from mom, and snag multiple seshs before its time to head home for dinner and do it all over again the next day. In direct opposition to The Surly “Stink Eye” Old Man Longboarder, these young surfers favor surfing with as many of their surfing friends as possible in a desperate attempt to show off their skills and gain recognition from their local brat pack peer group. Emulating the flashy moves of their favorite pro surfers gleaned from hours of careful study from the latest surf videos is top of the list for The Impressionable “Buy My Poster/ Sponsor Me” Surf Grom. Surfers in this group love the status symbol that stickers and labels from niche surf companies can provide them. They enjoy plastering these stickers all over their surfboard and fantasizing about travelling the world as a pro surfer. These surfers often join competitive organizations such as NSSA for regular entry into surf competitions, which breed surfers for bigger and better competitions down the road. The Impressionable “Buy My Poster/ Sponsor Me” Grom typically idolizes The Washed Up Ex Pro / Local Town Hero and he in kind often takes the young groms under his wing as he sees a bit of his former self in their conquest to become pro and dominate the lineup. The Groms, for better or worse, often learn the dynamics of Localism and its intricate power plays from the older generations as the baton gets passed from one generation to the next. Sometimes with all the heckling and trash-talking going on in the water within this peer group, you’d think you were witnessing a re-enactment of Piggy’s demise in Lord of the Flies. Who’s got the conch??

The Insta-Local:

This particularly rare and pompous surfer shows up to a break F.O.J. (“Fresh Off Jet”) and instantly acts as if they own the place. With little regard for anyone else, let alone the locals, this surfer will paddle battle, drop in wherever they please, and go around surfers to get priority of the peak. Depending on the locale and the intensity of its localism, this type of surfer may or not be able to get away with this kind of behavior for a short duration of time. Sooner or later, The Insta-Local gets put in their place and sent to the back of the line by someone bigger and gnarlier than them who demands respect (i.e.- Chuey). Examples of typical Insta-Locals are college students claiming their university town as their new home break, tourists who are competent enough to catch a wave & get in the way (i.e.- Zonies), and big budget surfers who fly halfway around the world for surf and mistakenly think this entitles them to an “All-You-Can-Eat” wave buffet (i.e.- travelling to wave rich, local heavy destinations like Bali, Hawaii, & Australia).

The Parking Lot Degenerate:

The Parking Lot Degenerate is a common fixture of any decaying surf scene. When you see too many of these guys loitering around you know things have gotten bad!! Often no more than a common street thug, these guys take it upon themselves to pick fights, let air out of/ slash tires, wax windshields, break into cars, and generally cause a ruckus all under the noble guise of protecting their local surf break. The Parking Lot Degenerate is at its core a jealous, angry, antagonizing bundle of loser denial. They feed off their ability to intimidate and strike fear into their surfing victims. As is often the case with losers of this echelon, The Parking Lot Degenerate 9 times out of 10 possess a rabid case of “crazy eye syndrome” unleashed by years of experimental drug use turned meth addiction. It is debatable whether The Parking Lot Degenerate spends more time in the lineup heckling and threatening other surfers versus swilling beers in the back of a pickup truck with his other parking lot degenerate loser friends. Similar to The Surly “Stink Eyed” Old Man Longboarder, The Parking Lot Degenerate is a big fan of holding onto the past and not accepting the reality of the present. They will often rehash past brawls and talk about fallen comrades of the Localism Elite who are now in jail or AA with a nostalgic sparkle in their crazy eyes as a tribute to what their life has become as the token Parking Lot Degenerate.

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