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#32 Combo Swells

Any surfer who has faced a walled up beachbreak lineup will attest to its saving grace, it’s luscious A-frame morsels of peaky goodness, it’s welcome respite from the everyday let down of continuous closeouts.  Yes, in certain times of the year (think Spring & Fall) when both swell generating hemispheres of the globe are working together in perfect symbiotic harmony, crossed up combo swells will arrive as the surfers’ answer to super fun, spread out, uncrowded surf.   As the swells from different sources approach the coastline, their energies combine to create amazingly wedgy, peaky, A-frame barrels that will make you think found a secret spot in your own backyard or just mindsurfed your way into another all expenses paid surf trip (keep dreamin’ bud!).  By all accounts, the combo swell scenario doesn’t happen all that often and doesn’t even need to be all that big to produce surprisingly fun surf.  It’s a a rare but welcome anomaly of stoke perpetuating bliss.  The combo swell casts a wide net on surf sesh possibilities that helps to spread out the crowds on the usually overburdened pointbreaks, reef breaks, and marquee surf spots that would normally be inundated with the “oops, I accidently dropped in on youWilbur Kookmeyer crew and the ever present, card carrying ambassadors of the local stink eye movement (see Localism).  Combo swells are there to greet the surfer in times of need when yet another “2 pump chump” to closeout combo just won’t cut it.  Next time one shows up at your local break – get on it!!  You’ll be stoked you did!

This video was sent to us by a wise friend who values those obscure, out of the ordinary things.  It’s definitely worth a few minutes of your time to watch this gem of a creative masterpiece!  Just imagine you’re a pint sized Legomaniac ripper ruling the surfing world and the rest will fall into place.  Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkF6hLmZ3qs

#31 The “Shaka”

Within the realm of surfer sign language, nothing says aloha more than the infamous shaka!  Born and bred out of the islands, the shaka is all about perpetuating good vibes, mutual respect, and being stoked.  Consisting of nothing more than an outstretched thumb and pinky with the three middle fingers folded into the palm (try look), the shaka is an indelible fixture within the indigenous Hawaiian culture.  Used regularly by Hawaiian locals as a warm greeting or whenever a driver is allowed to pass another (unlike the Mainlander Haole), the shaka is chock full of “hang loose” island stylie living.  Its origins are sketchy at best but like many far-fetched fish stories the shaka has its very own fanciful fairy tale (see history).

Back on “Da Mainland”, the shaka loses a bit of it’s aloha spirit.  While it is well known and used by surfers it generally maintains a different context than is found in the Islands.  Much like the hokey nature of puka shells and $1 touristy postcards, the shaka is more a novelty item reserved for cornball hand gestures in late night photo opps (in addition to Westside & other assorted gang references) or on surf trips to add spice to yet another picture of you in front of a palm tree.  It can also be seen being used in loose reference to Turtle’s epic “shaka-kadda-fadda-braddah” montage in the final scene of the classic Rick Kane surf saga – North Shore.  Unfortunately for haole surfers, to take the shaka seriously is setting oneself up to look like a major Wilbur.  It’s one of those subtle cultural nuances that cannot easily be bridged (much like white people trying to rap).  Nonetheless, whether you’re the “The Kanaka Maoli” (indigenous Hawaiian) or just some haole to the max surfer, the shaka is a solid addition to any surfers’ sign language repertoire.  Use it sparingly amongst your daily “fist bumping” and secret club handshake greetings.  Shaka Brah!!

“Castles In The Sky” Movie Trailer:  http://vimeo.com/10957583

*After three years of exploring and pioneering new coastlines in every corner of the earth, award winning surf filmmaker, director, and producer Taylor Steele , executive producer Sandrine Lima of Reel Sessions, and VAS Entertainment present the World Premiere of Taylor’s latest project “Castles in the Sky”!

Castles In the Sky is a visual whirlwind that follows surfers to the farthest reaches of the known surf world and beyond. Castles in the Sky is a completely new approach to surf filmmaking. Filmed in five countries over three years, the movie delves into the true heart of the locations while the surfers travel through them with a sense of open-minded awe. With never-before seen waves, an original score, and some of the best surfers in the world such as Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds, Rob Machado and Dave Rastovich contributing their art, passion and athleticism, this is as close to the experience of pioneering new coastlines as you can get without getting on a plane.

Starting next Tuesday, May 18th, Castles in the Sky will be premiering in Los Angeles, San Diego, and San Francisco California for your viewing enjoyment. Check it out!!!

(*text courtesy of Taylor Steele’s Poor Specimen Productions, Reel Sessions, & VAS Entertainment)

LOS ANGELES
Where:
Arclight Hollywood Cinema
6360 West Sunset Blvd
Los Angeles, CA
When: Tuesday, May 18th, 2010 at 8pm & 9:30pm

SAN DIEGO
Where:
La Paloma Theater
471 S. Coast Hwy 101
Encinitas, CA
When: Wednesday, May 19th, 2010 at 7pm & 9pm

SAN FRANCISCO
Where:
Great Star Theater in Chinatown
630 Jackson Street
San Francisco, CA
When: Friday, May 21st, 2010 at 9pm



#30 Car Key Stash Pockets

It’s a promising day of surf as the surfer rolls up to their favorite spot in their trusty surf vehicle.  After a brief wave check it’s affirmative that the waves are going off!!  Nothing left to do now but quickly change in public, wax up the board, and paddle out for yet another epic surf session.  Just one lingering detail to figure out, a BIG one in fact – Where to put the car keys?  It’s a question that has perplexed the surfing community for decades now as we continually look for better ways to safeguard our personal possessions and surf vehicles from would be thieves.  It’s a fact that cannot be denied – Surfers are notorious targets for surf vehicle robbery.  While we bob and float far out to sea oblivious to what may be happening back on shore to our ride, opportunistic and predatory crooks have full reign to take advantage of the easy pickings like a flock of rabid seagulls on an all out feeding frenzy. The simplest solution to all of this lies in a subtle, yet highly effective add-on component commonly fabricated into the back or leg panel of wetsuits, board shorts (more secure with a zippered pocket), and leashes. Better known as the “Car Key Stash Pocket”, this little gem devised by the surf industry provides us surfers with the reassuring piece of mind that our keys are safe and secure with us and not in the hands of some credit card stealing, identity theft perpetrating, vehicle joyriding kook (see this story).  It’s a lifesaver that takes the guessing game out of the equation unlike other surfers whom would rather roll the dice with their peek a boo, I see you Hide-a-Key under the bumper routine, car keys stowed in the captain obvious gas cap gig, or the always popular “let’s bring all of our worldly possessions down to the beach” in an unattended grab bag “free for all” special.  It must be mentioned that in addition to the Car Key Stash Pocket, a healthy dose of common sense goes a long way in protecting assets (i.e.- don’t leave valuables in the vehicle or expensive items showcased on the dashboard of the vehicle like a voluptuous window display at Victoria Secrets screaming “take me Big Boy!”)  For other surfers who have not adopted the genius of the Car Key Stash Pocket or are wary to do so (microchip in key & salt water = bad) there are other options available on the market (albeit pricier & perhaps a bit flaunting = “come try & break into me”) such as the Hitch Safe Key Vault if you have a truck or the Australian Surf Lock product which can be attached to any vehicle.  Just don’t go forgetting the key code or you might be left out in the cold shivering in yer booties!  Don’t be “Dat Guy!” When in doubt, keep things simple.  Stash it in the car key stash pocket and surf well into the evening glass off session with confidence.  Don’t worry, your surf vehicle will be there waiting for you. We promise!!!!  (Legal Disclaimer – Don’t hold us to it bro. We’re only trying to make the obvious point that car key stash pockets rule!  Grip it & rip it!!)

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